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I CAN’T FATHOM HOW—OR WHY—MY MOTHER CLIMBED into the attic in the oppressive August heat to dry flowers for arrangements. Or why on earth my aunt Mary Jo preferred peach preserves cooked in the sun. Well, they were delicious… Creative pursuits have taken place in spite of soaring temperatures. Just this past weekend I let angel biscuits proof on the outdoor patio table because it was warmer there than in my air-conditioned kitchen. But enough perspiration…let’s move indoors and cook a Smash Burger. And fries… This is a burger you smash down with a heavy spatula in a hot skillet while it sizzles and gets crispy around the edges. And let’s just say, once you cook a burger this way, you might not go back to grilled. Because it’s so dang hot outside.
When I was testing recipes for my Skillet Love book, my son was living at home, and he took interest in my trying to find the perfect burger recipe. All those years of me baking cakes? No interest. Burgers? Got his attention. And he shared with me one of his favorite grilling books, Meathead, by Meathead Goldwyn. Meathead is a genius about grilling, but he recognized that the most popular burgers in America are cooked on a griddle/flattop/skillet versus a grill over an open flame. And that the griddle has an advantage over the outdoor grill because it puts the burger in contact with more heat so the burger browns quickly, which translates to flavor. Burgers cooked this way are also faster to cook than grilling. But it’s all the more reason you want ground beef with a high-fat content (like chuck) to keep them from drying out. So John and I set out to test Smash Burgers with Meathead whispering in our ear, and we tested batch after batch with different grinds of beef and different sizes of skillets, and even one skillet that was not quite deep enough and so a small stove fire ensued - that was exciting!! - from grease popping onto the gas flame. But really, other than that, smooth sailing for me, and sheer adrenaline rush for my son! Our homemade Smash Burgers became our recipe and they are now the benchmark by which I judge every burger. You can’t take me anywhere…Because these burgers are juicy, crunchy and crispy around the edges, squishy from the condiments, and have these layers and textures that stack up quite nicely. So, save propane or charcoal. And follow my 10 steps to Smash Burger bliss. You will not be disappointed!
10 Steps to the Perfect Smash Burger
What are your tips for making great burgers?In spite of what may seem a long checklist, Smash Burgers are easy to make. They are, to me, the burger of summer and taste like those griddled burgers at the swimming pool. You’d bite into one in a wet bathing suit, and it didn’t matter how messy you got. After the pool kitchen burned down (obviously no one had cleaned the grease that accumulated on that stove), the burgers were replaced on the menu by wraps filled with faux-grilled chicken strips, bagged lettuce, and Sysco Caesar. It was a sad, sad day. Sorry Weber, but I say we bring back the griddled burger, America’s favorite, one Smash Burger at a time… Enjoy, and stay cool! - xo, Anne
Coming Thursday for SubscribersLet’s test a recipe…This time it’s Chocolate Pound Cake, which I am working on for my new book. I’ll be sharing that recipe and a link to an Open Thread on Thursday. So if you’ve got any questions about baking a pound cake, or just summer baking in general, ask away! And even if you are busy when the Open Thread hits mailboxes, don’t worry because I receive alerts when someone comments after the thread has begun, and that’s the beauty of an open topic of discussion. You can check in anytime you like. Want to test the Chocolate Pound Cake? Join us! And now, that burger recipe… THE RECIPE: Smash Burgers aka Sunday Night CheeseburgersThis crispy-edged diner-style burger is the best home burger you will ever make. And you can stack two if you’re hungry. One secret is the hot 12-inch cast iron skillet and the cold beef, which you season and then form into a ball and chill. Once the skillet is hot, the balls go into the pan, and are flattened out with a big flat metal spatula or a smaller cast iron skillet if you have one. Second secret - you need to keep pressing down on the burger as it cooks to keep it flattened out and to create the crispy edges. After a couple of minutes, turn the burger, top with cheese and let it cook to doneness on the other side. While the recipe calls for cooking in two batches, you can cook the burgers all at once in two skillets if you have them. Makes 6 servings Prep: 30 to 35 minutes Cook: 5 minutes 1 1/2 pounds ground chuck 1 teaspoon seasoning salt or your choice (Greek seasoning, TJ’s garlic-pepper-salt combo, Montreal Seasoning, or Lawry’s) Freshly ground black pepper 6 soft burger buns 1 tablespoon butter Condiments of your choice (mustard, mayo, ketchup, pickles, sliced onion, tomato, lettuce) 6 slices cheese of your choice (mild cheddar or a melty-type American)
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